Wine & Bubbles
Wine by the Glass ~ 4oz
Bubbly by the glass ~
2008 Raventós i Blanc Reserva Brut Cava Penedes, Spain ~ $8gls $34btl
Raventos is one of our favorite estates in Catalonia. The families’ winemaking roots dates back over 500 years in Penedes, and the exceptional quality of their wines further proves their passion. This biodynamic blend of 60% Macabeo, 20% Parellada and 20% Xarel-lo is expansive and elegant. It spends a minimum of 15 months on the lees, and shows a beautiful balance of minerality, white peach, fresh floral notes and brioche.
NV Foreau Chenin Blanc Brut Vouvray Loire Valley, France ~ $12gls $54btl
We believe Phillipe Foreau of Domaine du Clos Naudin is making some of the most expressive sparkling wine in all of France. This organically grown Chenin Blanc spends 4 years on the lees, no malo, secondary fermentation the traditional way and two years of maturation in the cellar prior to release. These processes have resulted in a fuller-bodied seductive sparkler. Showing a chalky core, delicate mousse and flavors of green apple, white lily, flint and lively acidity. Don’t miss this one!
Whites by the glass ~
2010 Bernard Baudry Chenin Blanc Chinon Loire Valley, France ~ $9gls $38btl
If you’re a fan of Chenin, you really shouldn’t miss this one. Chinon Blanc is made in very small quantities and is very rarely exported. Mathieu Baudry organically farms a tiny 1-hectare site comprised mostly of hard limestone, which he dedicates to this white bottling. It shows the best of Chinon with high-toned citrus flavors, nervy acidity, saliva inducing briny minerals, and a finish that seems to linger all night.
2009 Catherine et Pierre Breton “La Dilettante” Chenin Blanc Vouvray Loire Valley, France ~ $8.5gls $36btl
Catherine and Pierre biodynamically farm these 50-year-old vines themselves. In the cellar Catherine leads this project, slow native yeast fermentation, no malo, and bottling without the addition of sulfur are a few reasons why this Chenin seem so pure on the palate. Flavors of white peach, honeycomb, tropical fruit, flinty minerals, bracing acidity and more…
2009 Leitz “Dragonstone” Riesling Rheingau, Germany ~ $8gls $34btl
After meeting Johannes Leitz at his estate in the spring of 2007, we’ve all developed a real fondness for him as a winemaker and more importantly a friend. His 2009 Dragonstone is the best we’ve tasted, its lively acidity plays nicely off the sweet flavors of ripe peach, nectarine, and clementine, while its stony minerality are relentless aromatics give it wonderful depth.
2010 Nikolaihof “Hefeabzug” Gruner Veltliner Wachau, Austria ~ $9.75gls $42btl
Recognized as the oldest winery in Austria, Nikolaihof’s recorded history dates back nearly 2000 years. Now controlled by the Saahs family, their contribution to the estate has been nothing short of remarkable. Their Demeter certified biodynamic farm provides their restaurant with healthy produce where they serve huge portions of traditional Austrian fare and all of their vineyards are farmed on the same holistic principles. We are thrilled to offer this lees-aged Gruner; brilliantly textured, with mouthwatering acidity and a perfect balance of fruit and minerality. Don’t miss this wine…Prost!
2009 Királyudvar Furmint Tokaji, Hungary ~ $8.5gls $36btl
For almost half of the 20th century Hungary was controlled by the Iron Curtain and the areas legendary wines were nearly forgotten in the international market. Now with all of that in the past, Anthony Hwang of Kiráyudvar and many other Tokaji producers like him are quickly restoring the areas great reputation. Eco-friendly farming, native yeast fermentations and Hungarian oak aging are just a few of the methods used to best display their local terroir. This elegant texture-driven dry bottling is perfect cold weather drinking showing ripe apricot, flinty minerals, toasted brioche, honeysuckle and more.
2008 Tselepos “Barrique” Moscofilero Mantania, Greece ~ $8.5gls $36btl
Yannis Tselepos founded this Rootstock favorite estate in 1989. He works with a handful of more worldly varietals e.g. Cab Sauv, Merlot & Chardonnay, but we believe this winery’s best expressions come from the native Greek varietal of Moscofilero. Perfect for the cold Chicago months, this wine is fermented and aged in used French oak barrels. It clings to the grapes natural freshness showing bright citrus, fresh floral notes and crisp acidity with a soft oak presence coming on the finish.
2009 Comte Lafon Chardonnay Macon-Villages Burgundy, France ~ $8gls $34btl
A superstar of the South, Dominique Lafon led the movement to transform the once disregarded Macon Appellation into a highly respected Burgundy zone. His belief that Macon has greater terroir than most initially thought is quickly becoming more evident. His wines always have an assertive nature about them, with flavors of Bosc pear, toasted almonds, gravely minerals, toasted oak and a huge finish.
Red by the glass ~
2007 Catherine Le Goeuil Grenache Blend Côte du Rhône Villages, France ~ $8gls $34btl
We’ve been huge fans of Catherine and her beautiful blends for quite some time now. This organic 07’ CDR is mostly Grenache blended with Syrah, Mouvedre, Carignan and Counoise giving it great depth and character. Full-bodied, this blend is showing dried black fruit flavors, dark chipotle pepper spice, sandy minerals and silky tannins. Excellent cold weather drinking!
2010 Tire Pé “Diem” Merlot blend Bordeaux, France ~ $8gls $34btl
This lovely naturally produced Bordeaux is unlike any other wine we’ve tasted from the region. It’s a classic right-bank blend of mostly Merlot with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that’s farmed organically, aged 6 months in cement tanks and bottled without filtration of any type. A true expression of fruit and terroir, showing red currant, provencal herbs, plum, gravel and cedar with soft granular tannin.
2008 Massaya “Classic” Cinsault blend Bekaa Valley, Lebanon ~ $7.5gls $32btl
The Bekaa Valley covers about 1/3 of Lebanon and has a fascinating history of wine production dating back nearly 5000 years! Though it’s the present state of the Bekaa Valley that we’re most excited about. A younger breed of quality-focused producers like the Ghosn brothers of Massaya have reenergized a nearly forgotten region. Their terroir-driven wines get better every vintage and this easy drinking blend of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is the best we’ve had. It’s full-bodied, showing ripe red raspberry, spicy white pepper, eucalyptus, and a long satisfying finish.
2007 Domaine Mercouri Refosco/Mavrodaphne Vin des Letinon, Greece ~ $8.5gls $36btl
From the western edge of the Peloponnesus, from a place surrounded by palm trees and pines and a salty sea breeze, comes this stately, Burgundian blend of Refosco and Mavrodaphne, delivering lean sour-cherry, black raspberry and tobacco, violets and rosemary, all held in the firm yet gentle grip of burnt cinnamon and cedar tannins. And the finish is endless. We’re simply delighted we can pour this for you–the sexiest red you’ll sip all year, we swear.
2008 Quinta do Infantado Field blend Douro, Portugal ~ $9gls $38btl
Infantado is one of our favorite port houses in the Douro region and this unfortified brooding blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz is one of the areas best. Staying true to tradition, they harvest everything by hand; the grapes are partially destemmed, and then foot-treaded in lagar. Their organic farming methods and healthy vineyards make it easy for the wines to ferment naturally without the addition of any foreign yeast strand. The finished wine is supple and dark, with chewy tannin and a palate showing tart blackberry, dark chocolate, schist, spice and a finish of impressive length. Don’t miss this one!
2009 Fernand Girard “La Garenne” Pinot Noir Sancerre, France ~ $9gls $38btl
If you’ve never tried a Pinot Noir from Sancerre this is a great place to start. The areas limestone slopes and cool climate is perfect for producing a lean mineral-driven style. Fernand Girard farms all of his fruit organically and traditionally produces his wines to best express the areas unique terroir. It clearly shows here with flavors of tangy strawberry, mountain herbs, red currant and a clean finish of pronounced salty minerals.
2009 Tikal “Natural” Malbec Mendoza, Argentina ~ $9gls $38btl
Ernesto Catena of Tikal started working in the vineyards of Mendoza as a youth, observing and absorbing, knowing that one day he’d have a winery of his own. His father, Nicolas Catena Zapata is widely credited with pioneering the richer style that’s made Argentine Malbec so popular. This “Natural” bottling is 100% organic, with a seamless palate feel, and bold flavors of ripe blackberries, anise, bitter chocolate, toasty barrique, and mocha.
2009 Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano Trentino, Italy ~ $9.5gls $42btl
Since 1985, dynamic, captivating, now-legendary Elisibetta Foradori has spent her life researching the history of the Teroldego varietal (a cousin to Syrah), and has been replanting her family’s vineyards in Trentino to its multiple lost clones in order to successfully show its ancient storied potential. The resulting wine is sassy, spicy, layered, dark, elevating, and elegant.
2006 Cabanon Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese, Italy ~ $9gls $38btl
Once one of Italy’s most revered young winemakers, Elena Mercandelli will forever have a huge place in our hearts. Her profound knowledge of the various terroirs throughout Oltrepo Pavese, and her keen ability to display them through her natural wines had us smitten after our first sip. Her Bonarda has been a long-time staff favorite, it’s well structured with a deep ruby color, bracing acidity and notes of ripe blackberry, tart strawberry, pink peppercorn, malt and sleek tannin.
2008 Unti Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Sonoma, California ~ $9gls $38btl
Mick Unti is one of our favorite Cali producers. He naturally farms several different grape varietals on his property just outside of Healdsburg. His Zinfandel led blend changes each vintage to show us the best of his Sonoma County fruit. This ‘08 has 18% Petit Sirah for added structure and fruit, It’s both masculine and elegant… Easily one of the best Zinfandels you’ll ever taste. Cheers!
Bottle List ~ white
France ~
White
2007 Domaine de la Folie “Clos la Folie” Rully, Burgundy ~ $48
One of the northern most estates in Rully, their vineyards are situated on the same vein of limestone that runs through the neighboring zone of Chassagne-Montrachet, lending this breathtaking Chardonnay loads of structure and mouthwatering minerality. Firm but generous, the layers of flavors seem to playfully mask themselves within each other just begging to be discovered, a wonderful wine that’s not to be missed.
1985 Huet “Clos de Bourg” Moelleux Vouvray. Loire Valley ~ $150
With a history of nearly 1500 years, Vouvray’s Clos du Bourg is one of the Loire Valleys most storied sites. The vineyard’s comprised entirely of structure yielding hard limestone, which has kept this 1/4-century-old Chenin Blanc particularly youthful. This Moelleux has moderate sweetness and nicely integrated flavors of ripe white peach, sea-salt, quince, lanolin, alpine-style cheese, and almond, while the finish is long, lean, and incredibly satisfying.
2008 Thomas-Labaille “Cuvee Buster” Sancerre, Loire Valley ~ $60
This single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc was grown on the steep slopes of the Mont Damnés, which many argue to be Sancerre’s very best site. It instantly grabs your attention with the interplay of taught minerals, racy acidity and focused lean fruit flavors. Stylistically, the proprietor and winemaker, Jean-Paul Labaille is as hands off as they come, to ensure each of his Sancerre’s show their place in history.
2009 Claude Riffault “Les Boucauds” Sancerre, Loire Valley ~ $50
Part of a progressive generation of young Loire winemakers focused on best expressing local terroir, Stephane Riffault’s been farming his vineyards organically since taking over the family estate. This cheerful single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc has soft acidity and mouthwatering minerality that primes your palate for big flavors of white peach, pineapple, tart grapefruit, nettle, flint and chalk.
Italy & Slovenia ~
White
2009 Ferrando “La Torrazza” Erbaluce di Caluso, Italy ~ $38
Luigi Ferrando is the leading producer of Erbaluce (‘shining grass’); next to Greco, it’s the most evocative white varietal in Italy – it’s definitely a nighttime wine – showing a ghostly sense of jasmine, guava, mint, fading honeysuckle, and summer love . . .
2009 Monastero Suore Cistercensi “Coenobium” Lazio, Italy ~ $44
Crafted by the sisters (nun wine!) of a Cistercian monastery in the central Italian town of Vitorchiano. The iconic Giampiero Bea guides them as they vinifie this blend of Verdicchio, Grechetto and Trebbiano more like a red wine. Keeping the juice in contact with the skins and lees for an extended period of time results in a deeply layered and complex wine showing a huge mineral presence and flavors of baked apple, toasted almond, mountain herbs and a touch of grape tannin. Amazing!
2006 Movia “Veliko” Brda, Slovenia ~ $75
Wow! This Veliko took our breath away… Alec Kristancic’s biodynamic blend of mostly Ribolla, with 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sivi Pinot (Pinot Grigio) is nothing short of spectacular. It’s built to last through ambient yeast fermention, used Slovenian oak aging, 3 years of lees contact and bottling without filtration of any type. There is a delicate balance of richness and youth here. The acidity is bright while the finely wound flavors are quickly amplified with a few minutes in the glass.
Greece ~
White
2010 Domaine Sigalas “Steel Fermented” Santorini ~ $39
Some of the oldest roots on the planet produce this steely, electric marvel by our friend Paris Sigalas. Once upon a time a volcano pushed this island to double in size, then blew up the better half–and it seems they’ve been growing Assyrtiko ever since. Here we have a perfect wine for seafood and vegetables, bright and lively, with searing acidity, gripping minerality, lean salt-taffy–and if left in the bottle it would outlive us all.
2010 Skouras Moscofilero Peloponnese ~ $31
For George Skouras this wine is about light and freshness–only the free-run juice is used here, and the grapes are chilled if necessary to ensure the skins impart as little color, tannins, or extra weight to the wine as possible. The result is sunshine in a bottle: bright, joyful acidity that is positively refreshing radiates ripe peaches and honeysuckle, a touch of passion fruit and guava, and a long orange-rind finish. Great with a salad, perfect for seafood, and brilliant for breakfast.
Spain ~
.
White
2009 Viña Mein Field Blend Ribeiro ~ $30
Founded in 1988, by Javier Alen, with a vision of bringing Galician wine back to its truest form by planting only the varietals that have been cultivated in the region for nearly 1000yrs. An invigorating wine, containing 7 grape varitetals, shows how diversity can bring out subtle complexities and sharpen your palate. The wines light, finessed, and slightly viscous showing fleshy fruit, primal rock, and a touch of spearmint.
2009 Pazo de Galegos Albariño Rias Baixas ~ $38
The sandy cliffs and Atlantic breeze of Rias Baixas provide the perfect microclimate for this staff favorite varietal Albarino. All natural fermentaion and long skin contact are responsible for an endless array of aromatics just begging for contemplation. This lighter bodied oceanic wine has bracing acidity, showing sandy minerality, lime zest, Anjou pear, and much more.
2010 Mendall “Finca Abeurador” Macabeu Terre Alta ~ $55
We’re thrilled to offer this Catalonian gem! This wine actually came about by accident; in 2002 the winemaker Laureano Serres forgot to add sulfur to one of his tanks and when it came time to bottle he instantly realized his mistake and found that he preferred the tank of un-sulfured orange wine to the rest. From that day forward he decided to stop adding sulfur to any of his wines. This wine is orange in color a delicately textured; on the nose it’s very cider-esqe with aromas of cooked apple and fresh yeast. While the palate is strangely complex showing flavors of green apple, white pepper, plum, fresh baked brioche, marjoram, and much more…
Germany & Austria ~
White
2009 Leitz “Eins Zwei Dry” Riesling Trocken Rheingau, Germany ~ $30
Johannes Leitz is a very dear friend to all of us at Rootstock. We’re thrilled to show his Trocken (DRY) Riesling. This wine drinks clean as a whistle; cool acidity leads the palate through a wide array of flavors mandarin orange, key lime, and minerals. The perfect white to start your evening…
2010 Donnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken Nahe, Germany ~ $50
This dry Riesling has everything we love in the style. Firm and linear with balanced flavors of fruit, fresh flowers and caraway. The bright acidity and mouthwatering gray slate minerals show the best of the Nahe. Don’t miss this one!
2007 Keller Riesling Trocken Rheinhessen, Germany ~ $38
One of the best producers in the Rheinhessen, Peter Keller continues to show us the regions brilliance through his dry Rieslings. 2007 shows us a richer side of the varietal, with nice balancing acidity, very well integrated fruit and terroir-driven flavors. We love the way this wine is able to gracefully transform itself, starting rich with ripe citrus fruit flavors, then quickly becomes leaner and dry, with intense minerality.
2008 Hexamer Riesling Quartzit Reserve Nahe, Germany ~ $44
We all share a similar fondness for Harold Hexamer since visiting his estate in 2007. We are super excited to offer the first vintage of this Quartzit Reserve. 25% of this Riesling underwent a spontaneous 12-month fermentation in a 1200L cask. It was then blended with the other 75% in stainless steel where it sat on the fine lees for 12 months. The result of all of these processes is remarkable. The wine sweetness is balanced by its leesy tones, fresh acidity and Chartreuse-like herbal spiciness.
1997 Max Ferd. Richter Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spätlese Mosel, Germany ~ $45
With extensive holdings in some of the regions best sites, Dr. Dirk Richter is one of the Mosel’s most widely respected winegrowers. Family-owned for more than 3 centuries this estates prides itself in making sophisticated barrel-aged wines with great aging potential. The Elisenberg vineyard is comprised of mostly gray slate and quartz lending this wine a unique mineral character, with flavors of nectarine, gooseberry and light petrol.
2007 Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese Mosel, Germany ~ $44
The storied Longuich Maximiner Herrenberg is a favorite German vineyard. Purchased by the Schmitt-Wagner family in 1804 from Napoleon Bonaparte. This site’s comprised entirely of ancient Devonian (blue) slate, all the vines are planted on their own rootstock and some where planted as early as 1893!!! This ’07 Spatlese is pitch-perfect with moderate sweetness, slatey minerals, taut orchard fruit, nervous acidity and a seductive finish, showing the best of the Mosel.
2007 Willi Schaefer Gracherer Dombprobst Riesling Spätlese #12 Mosel, Germany ~ $60
Each vintage, Willi Schaefer will make several passes through his vineyards, only harvesting his grapes once they’ve achieved optimum ripeness. In the cellar each harvest is then vinified separately, and Willi will meticulously go barrel-to-barrel tasting the wines in search of the few barrels that may outshine the rest. If an extraordinary barrel is found, he wont use that wine for his blend, he’ll simply bottle it on its own and label it with the barrel #. This Spatlese #12 is ripe, rich, and elegant, with lively acidity, sweet fruit flavors of guava, candied grapefruit and apricot with a huge mineral presence. If you’ve never had one of Willi’s wines this is a wonderful place to start.
2009 Schlossgut Diel “Dorsheim Pittermännchen” Riesling Spätlese Nahe, Germany ~ $55
Armin Diel, author, wine jounalist and critic, is widely recognized as one of thee most influential winemaker/writers in Germany. With the help of his daughter Caroline, they craft some of the best Riesling in the Nahe. The Pittermannchen is a tiny south-facing site full of gray slate and quartz, which is very much on display here. This racy Spatlese shows flavors of strawberries and cream, passion fruit, and tangerine quickly give way to a long mineral driven finish.
2007 Meulenhof Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese Mosel, Germany ~ $50
From one of Germanys “Grand Crus” the Erdener Pralat is a Rootstock favorite. It stays extraordinarily warm; the red slate soaks up the heat of the sun all day, and then gently releases it back on to the grapes above throughout the cold evenings. Stephan Justen of Meulenhof is one of 7 very-lucky major producers to own a plot on this tiny site. This wine is slightly weighty with rich aromatics of white peach, potting clay and starfruit. It’s focused acidity lifts the palate while flavors of sweet mango, fresh spearmint, guava, and ginger gently unravel.
2010 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese “Goldkapsel” Nahe, Germany (375 ml) ~ $78
Another gem from one of our favorite producers! This Auslese comes of a bit drier than it actually is due to the lack of botrytis (about 30%) and abundance of gray-slate-like minerals on the palate. For an Auslese it’s showing nicely in its youth with nervy acidity, transparent stone fruit, lilac and lovely honeyed botrytis notes coming on the finish.
2009 Wimmer-Czerny Roter Veltliner Wagram, Austria ~ $45
Roter Veltliner – a very low-yielding ancient Austrian grape varietal – used to dominate the landscape. Over a century ago nearly all the Roter was replaced with the much higher yielding Gruner Veltliner, leaving Roter to go nearly extinct. Hans Czerny is one of several producers to resurrect Austrias once noble grape, it’s thicker skins and high acidity give it incredible aging potential, while it’s lighter body, fresh citrus, and spice driven flavors make it lovely to consume young.
2010 Nikolaihof Gelber Muskateller Wachau, Austria ~ $55
After a visit to Nikolaihof in 2009, we left Austria absolutely smitten by this wine. Gelber Muskateller a.k.a Yellow Muscat is a naturally aromatic varietal and Nikolaihof’s young winemaker Nikolaus Saahs’s ability to display that same freshness on the palate is superlative. This wine is bright and floral showing lavender, black currant, orange peel, spicy sassafras and a whole lot more.
2006 Franz Hirtzberger Axpoint Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau, Austria ~ $70
The young Franz Hirtzberger has recently taken over the winemaking responsibilities from his father at this legendary estate. Their traditional philosophy is simple, vigilant vineyard management, very selective harvesting methods, no chaptialization, all natural fermentation, and maturation in giant oak casks. This full-bodied GruVe is showing tart grapefruit, toasted pumpkin seed, lime zest, white pepper and much more…
2010 Nigl Riesling Dornleiten Kremstal, Austria ~ $53
Martin Nigl’s brilliant wines always seem to demand your attention. They’re flashy and racy, as they seem to accelerate on your palate. This ’10 Dornleiten is no exception, it’s showing everything you’d want from a bone-dry Austrian Riesling; salty minerals, tart fruit flavors, fennel and a lively finish.
2007 Rudi Pichler “Terrassen” Riesling Smaragd Wachau, Austria ~ $60
Rudi is one of our favorite producers in Austria and we are simply delighted to offer his remarkable ‘07 Terrassen. This super spicy Smaragd is densely layered showing flavors of green melon, white pepper, primal rock, celery salt and a whole lot more… Simply amazing!
2009 Alzinger “Loibener Steinertal” Riesling Smaragd Wachau, Austria ~ $60
This wine will leave you breathless! Leo Alzinger has become one of the Wachau’s top producers making wines with an unmatched balance of elegance and assertiveness. This 09’ definitely leans more towards the assertive side with medium-high acidity and a concentrated palate showing lime zest, green tea, tart apple, fresh floral notes and much more…
2006 Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd Wachau, Austria ~ $70
From one of the worlds very best estates! The Achletien is a very steep-terraced vineyard planted on pure gnice “primary rock” overlooking the Danube River. At Prager the winemaker Toni Bodenstein is constantly sampling and studying the various terroirs of the Wachau Valley in attempts to better display them through his wines. This racy dry Riesling is showing great right now with intense flavors of white peach, fresh floral notes, mild petrol and a huge finish.
2008 Hirsch “Zöbinger Heiligenstein” Riesling Kamptal, Austria ~ $60
This wine is from one of our favorite vineyards! The Heiligenstein is one of the most geologically complex on the planet with layers of sandstone, volcanic rock, and primary rock giving wines produced here a very unique sense of place. While Josef Hirsch farms the vineyards on biodynamic principles his son Johannes works the cellar. Together they are producing some of the most terroir expressive Riesling and Gruner Veltliners in Austria. This 08’ is showing a palate full of peach pit, apricot, flint and spicy mountain herbs with a seemingly endless finish.
Hirsch “Zobinger Gaisberg” Riesling Kamptal, Austria ~
We were fortunate enough to get our hands on several different vintages from this celebrated site. The Gaisberg is comprised of granite and mica-schist with a full southern exposure and a cool micro-climate which is absolutely perfect for the Riesling varietal. Our quantities are so limited on these wines that our descriptions had to come from this wines legendary importer Terry Theise. Enjoy!
1998 ~ $145
“The palate is a drowning surge of solid stone. Then the fist-full of tight little sugar-berries. After five minutes in the glass, there are UNBELIEVABLE aromatics. Explosively tight and just infrared fruit. How does white wine get better than this? It was the wine of the vintage for me!” Terry Theise
2002 ~ $120
“The 2002 is just screaming with great sizzling depth of mirabelle and raspberry. High-toned minerally nose and the palate has the usual sizzling precision and wonderful saltiness.” Terry Theise
2004 ~ $110
“This is a devilishly complex thing; spicy-salty aromas, ferrous and showing some of the ‘04s charred smoky notes; a sizzling spicy palate, thickly juicily mineral.” “There’s a note of not-quite-fully-ripe blackberry; the palate really swells and billow and sweetens, reaching a crescendo of lavish iridescent intensity.” Terry Theise
2006 ~ $110
“Tightly packed mineral and wisteria, molten silver; the palate is almost constricting, crazily tight, ultraviolet; also leesy and weirdly also chocolate and jasmine and tarragon; it’s a wild ride of neon and flower and mineral; it seems to attach jumper-cables from the glass to your palate.” Terry Theise
2008 1.5L ~ $150
“The aroma is gorgeously flowery in the Gaisberg way; iris, wisteria, purple lilacs, and it’s replete with Gaisberg’s signature minerality; the wine almost works like a Nahe feinherb, absurdly detailed and complex. Gaisberg is what it means to be Riesling!” Terry Theise
Americas ~
White
2009 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Finger Lakes, New York ~ $36
A native of Bernkastel in Germany’s Mosel River Valley, Hermann Wiemer discovered the cool climate and gravel soils of New York’s Finger Lakes region in 1979. He has been instrumental in the development of this young region and we are convinced his Rieslings are some of the best in America. The 09’ dry Riesling is medium-bodied and bone dry showing flavors of key lime, sea salt, orange blossom and a long mineral driven finish.
2007 Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, Oregon ~ $36
David Lett the Founder of Eyrie was a pioneer of American winemaking, planting the Willamette Valleys first Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. After David’s passing in 08 his son Jason took over the responsibilities of their land. Closely following in his fathers’ footsteps, Jason has kept the vineyards organic and continues to find new ways to best express Oregon terroir. This wines layered complexities and distinct aromatics, makes it one of the best in the States. This wines dry, medium-bodied with pronounced minerality, pear, lime, orange zest, starfruit, chalky minerals and smoke.
New Zealand ~
White
2010 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ~ $31
For all you Kiwi Sauv Blanc lovers out there this wine was not made to disappoint. It’s grassy, with plenty of ruby red grapefruit, and gooseberry that makes it undoubtedly from Marlborough.
Bottle List ~ rosé
2000 R. Lopez de Heredia “Vina Tondonia” Rioja, Spain ~ $45
If you haven’t had a Vina Tondonia (Gran Reserva) from Lopez de Heredia this is a wondrful place to start. This unique rosé is a blend of Garnacha(60%), Tempranillo(30%), and Viura(10%) spent 4 1/2 years in oak barrels, where it’s quietly matured developing subtle oxidative qualities. 2000 was a great vintage for this age-worthy rosé. It’s very fresh and youthful with a light orange almost tawny color and a deep concentrated palate showing orange pith, pear skin, rhubarb, almond and much more…
2010 Tempier Bandol, France ~ $75
Tempier is a perennial favorite, producing one of the most sought-after southern French rosés every vintage. The legendary Peyraud family has been instrumental in the protection and expression of Bandol’s exceptional terroir. Their organic salmon-colored Mouvédre led blend shows the best of the south with great minerality and flavors of candied blood orange, Provencal herbs, lemon zest and shimmering acidity.
Bottle List ~ red
France ~
Red
2010 Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Beaujolais ~ $40
Marcel Lapierre along with Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, and Guy Breton – appropriately known as the “Gang of Four” – is credited with the revival of Beaujolais. They fought the invasion of pesticides and fertilizers in the 80s believing that their unfiltered and non-sulfured natural wines were superior to the “industrial wines” that Beaujolais was better known for. Sadly on October 10th 2010 the wine world lost one of its most influential vintners when Marcel lost his battle with melanoma at the age of 60. Now his son Mathieu carries on his fathers legacy making wines with the same tenacity, showing the world a more authentic side of Beaujolais.
2007 Ghislaine Barthod “Les Bons Batons” Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy ~ $60
Ghislaine’s fine, delicate wines stimulate the palate much like a faint perfume can recall a powerful memory. Since apprenticing with her father in the 1980’s, she’s transformed her tiny family property of 5.8 hectares into Chambolle’s benchmark estate using very traditional methods and only native yeasts for slow fermentations that express the essence of her local terroir.
2009 Jacques Puffeney Arbois, Jura ~ $55
We’ve tasted few Pinot Noirs on the planet quite like this one. The warm 2009 vintage is present here, lending this wine a bit more body and texture but surprisingly fresh acidity. The flavors are dark showing dried black cherry, peat smoke, savory herbs, graphite and restrained tannin.
2005 Olga Raffault “Les Picasses” Chinon, Loire Valley ~ $42
Aged 12-14 months in old foudres by Olga’s granddaughter Sylvie, this is Chinon’s finest expression of Cabernet Franc. The vines are 50+ years old, planted in pure limestone, organically grown, and hand-harvested. The flavors here are flattering, but pay attention to the texture; it’s so velvety and clean, it begs for another sip.
2006 Chateau Pibran Pauillac, Bordeaux ~ $78
Shortly after taking over this houses winemaking responsibilities Jean-René Matignon – from the storied estate of Pichon Longueville – has transformed Chateau Pibran into one of Pauillacs most unconventional estates. Cabernet Sauvignon led blends are most-common throughout the commune, while this wine is Merlot based, around 70%, with the rest being Cab Sauv. It’s an approachable and refined young Pauillac with roasted game, tar, black raspberry, chalk and firm tannin.
2006 Jean Louis Chave “Offerus” Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhone ~ $60
“41-year old Jean-Louis Chave is the current inheritor of this superlative, historic Northern Rhône estate, which has passed directly from father to son since 1481. The family’s chief holdings are within 9 plots on the Hermitage hill: here, J-L learned from his father Gerard the art of blending varied terroirs. He brought his skill into the nearly forgotten region of St. Joseph in 1995 to make this Syrah from 2+ hectares he planted himself, along with a measure of purchased fruit. Today, it’s one of the small zone’s top expressions, and one of the Northern Rhône’s finest; its sting of iron minerality and keen peppery spice is tempered by generous black fruit and rich palate feel.”
2004 Levet “La Chavaroche” Côte Rôtie, Northern Rhone ~ $135
This decadent Syrah shows traditional Côte Rôtie at its very best. Its medium-high acidity and dark gamey flavors of dried cherry, barnyard, charcoal smoke, gravel, bacon-fat and violets, paired with Bernard Levets terroir-driven style will leave nothing to be desired…
2004 Domaine de Beaurenard “Les Argiles Bleues” Rasteau, Cote du Rhone Villages ~ $60
“There’s no CDR even remotely like this – to say it’s terroir-driven is an understatement! From a 7th generation estate, and our favorite pair of brother-winemakers in France, the genial and erudite Coulon boys, this special wine is made from old Grenache and Syrah vines planted to terraced parcels of blue clay (‘Argiles Bleues’) near the village of Rasteau: every step of its elaboration – harvest by hand, native yeast fermentation, a year and a half ageing in foudre, bottling without filtration – is taken in order to retain the extra richness and elegance which this soil type provides. Robust and pure, it captures the soul of the South, showing anise, rosemary, and spicy white pepper.
2009 Michel Gahier “Grands Vergers” Arbois, Jura ~ $62
The varietal here is Trousseau, it’s utterly unique and will stimulate your senses in a way most wines can’t. All naturally made it’s light-bodied with nervous acidity and intense flavors of tart cherry, cranberry skin, hibiscus, morning dew, cinnamon spice, and a savory finish. Michel Gahier is said to be mild mannered man who lets his wines speak for themselves. If that’s truly the case, he’s certainly made believers out of us!
2004 Pradeauex Bandol ~ $80 750ml & $155 1.5L
Pure Mourvèdre from a stunning vintage and Bandol’s most legendary estate, owned by the Portallis family since the 18th century and run today by the perfectionist Cyrille Portallis, known by some as the ‘Madman of Bandol’. Everything here is utterly traditional: the grapes are pressed with their stems for cement fermentation using only native yeast before ageing for years in giant 80-year old casks, resulting in a feral, eloquent, savage wine fringed with charming spice.
Italy ~
Red
2005 Paulo Bea “Rosso de Veo” Umbria ~ $120
Located in the Montafalco foothills, the Bea family tradition dates back to the 1500s. Their “natural” winemaking style has been passed down through the generations focused on one common goal, making “true” wines that best reflect Umbria’s unique local terroir. This 100% Sagrentino from the younger vines of the Pagliaro and Cerrete Crus invigorates with aromas and flavors of mountain herbs, sun-dried brambly fruit, rosehips, cassis and integrated tannin. Just give this wine a moment; you’ll be amazed as it captivates all of your senses as it slowly develops in the glass.
2009 Emilio Bulfon Piculit Neri delle Vittoria, Fruili ~ $38
Emilio has dedicated his life to finding and replanting all of the Ancient native vines to Fruili that existed pre-phylloxera, but after the parasite-ravaged European vineyards in the 19th century the vineyards were replanted with more “worldly” varietals. Here is his Piculit Neri a thin-skinned varietal that makes some light bodied high acid wines. The flavors are bright and integrated, slightly herbaceous, and black tea like tannin.
2008 COS “Cerasuolo di Vittoria” Sicily ~ $58
This is our favorite biodynamic Sicilian winery, started in 1980 by three pot-smoking, super-smart university pals (Cilia, Occhipinti, and Strano: ergo, COS) in their parents’ vineyards. They researched ancient winemaking methods, and have rehabilitated old Carthaginian varietals (like Frappato, 40% of this wine, along with Nero d’Avola) to make the purest wine possible. Hand-harvested, foot-pressed, this wine is all about velocity and speed – it’s both keen and generous, showing fresh-cut fennel, tart cranberry, and golden raisin.
2009 Occhipinti Frappato Vittoria, Sicily ~ $68
Arianna Occhipinti is one of Italy’s rising stars, as a teen she worked under the tutelage of her uncle Giusto – co owner and a winemaker at COS – helping him make their natural wines. In 2001, at the age of 21, she started her own label farming only two grape varietals. Her long macerations (60 days on this Frappato) help her minimize the use of sulfur, and concurrently the wine devolops a remarkably deep bouquet and a palate that brings to mind sun-soaked volcanic earth and wild fermented Belgian framboise.
2007 Cabanon Cuoredivino “La Botte nº 18” Oltrepo Pavese ~ $40
Cabanon’s cherubic Elena Mercandelli is nothing short of a wunderkind. She was Italy’s first award-winning teenage winemaker at her family estate, dating to 1909, and in her passionate attention to her given, perfectly-situated, well-ventilated, heavenly plot of land, has amassed a range of winemaking knowledge that should be the envy of the world. She’s a real artist in the vineyard and cellar – we had the chance to see her work for 3 solid weeks – carefully, daily, organically balancing yeast performance with varietal maturity for optimal flavor and finesse, she’s bottling the best wines the Oltrepo Pavese’s ever seen.
2004 Riecine “Reserva” Chianti Classico, Tuscany ~ $70
Winemaker Sean O’Callahan’s very dedicated to producing his Tuscan wines in a traditional manner. Primarily Sangiovese, from a terrific vintage, it offers up aromas of leather, cocoa, and cherries, with a balanced palate of raspberry, spicy oak, gravel, cedar and supple tannin. A Rootstock favorite!
Querciabella Chianti Classico, Tuscany ~
Established in the early 70s, Querciabella is one of Tuscanys newer estates. Slightly more modern it their approach – especially for the Chianti standards – the Classicos are blended with about 15% Cab Sauv and 5% Merlot, but since their conversion to Biodynamics in 99 their wines have stylistically become a benchmark in the region.
2006 ~ $50
Full bodied and elegant – ripe strawberry, tobacco, minerals, and dark chocolate with soft spicy tannin.
2004 ~ $17 (375 ml)
A dark, rich, and concentrated Classico, showing black cherries, spicy herbs, leather, and toasted oak.
2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Piedmonte ~ $64
Forget Gaja and Ceretto! – we only know Barbaresco as an independent zone thanks to Domizio Cavazza, who effectively began this Produttori in 1894 – today it’s the world’s highest quality co-operative, with 56 members and 1/6 of the total land in Barbaresco – it remains completely traditional – no barrique, all botti and careful organic cultivation – this expresses the best of Barbaresco – edge, accessibility, cut, drive, oxidation, cherry and tar and rosepetal . . .
Greece ~
Red
2006 Domaine Karydas Naoussa ~ $50
Basically just two hands tended these grapes, and the wine was made in ceramic-lined cement vats built into a wall at the back of the family kitchen. A tiny two hectare plot becomes stunningly clear in the wine–and after nearly two years in french oak we have a wine with incredible intensity, grace, sophistication and torque–all sundried tomatoes and rose-hips, bright red fruit, hot bricks and peppercorn, cedar, leather, and a long, soothingly tannic finish.
2009 Gaia Estate “Notios” Nemea ~ $38
Co-founded in 1994 by Yiannis Paraskevopolous, Professor of Oenology at Athens Tech., Gai’a Estate in Koutsi has made its name by combining careful attention in the vineyard, and a truly old word sensibility, with modern technological savvy, curiosity, and an experimental spirit, making wines that expand the idea of what a still traditional Nemea might be. This ‘Notios,’ named for the south wind, is their entry-level red and shows a charming, juicier, maybe easier-going side of Aghiorghitiko. A quick, cool maceration and but a month and a half of oak lend soft shoulders, a rich milk chocolate texture, super-ripe black raspberry and velvety tamarind.
Skouras Megos Oenos Peloponnese ~
The first winery in Greece to combine an indigenous grape with an international, this blend of eighty per-cent old-vine Aighiorghitiko from the harsh, granite-spiked Asprokambros (‘the White Valley’), and intense, mineral-driven Cabernet Sauvignon continues to provide a benchmark for serious wines with a sense of place.
2000 ~ $57
Summer in Nemea was hot with cool nights; ideal conditions to achieve mature grapes with crisp thick skins. This wine is built for longevity and was drinking well when I tasted it in October 2009. It’s delightful on the palate with good balance of tannins, fruit and acidity. Light black pepper midway through with a finish of currants and rosemary.
2005 ~ $57
This 05 has a beautiful bouquet that’s true to the fresh Mountain Nemea air. Summer started hot and cooled in August. With no September rains the grapes were able to reach full maturity and a quick 3 day harvest commenced on September 20th. It is showing strong tannins with integrated oak, has great acid while finishing with dark cocoa and black currant.
2007 Skouras “Grande Cuvee” Nemea ~ $50
At a place called ‘Bozikas,’ near the northern tip of Nemea, almost a thousand meters above the sea our friend George Skouras negotiates with the gods; one of four similar sites that go to make this thrilling Grand Cuvee, this is a place of extremes–and not just for the grapes, sometimes barely accessible for humans. The soil here is so rich in iron it’s dark crimson, and even smells and tastes like blood. The wine is simply amazing: majestic, lean and angular, austere but never stingy, taught acidity and profound minerality give way to volcanic smoke, burnt sundried tomatoes and fennel, bright but restrained fruit, earth, oregano and rosemary, with an absolutely haunting finish.
Spain ~
Red
2005 Lopez de Heredia “Vina Cubillo” Rioja ~ $45
There are few wineries in the world as serious about tradition as the folks at Lopez de Heredia. They only cultivate Rioja’s indigenous grape varieties, ferment and age in giant oak casks, and bottle-age sometimes for decades in their ancient cellar. This staff favorite flatters the palate with bright acidity, and flavors of black cherry, anise, flint, licorice, charred spicy oak, and a dark finish.
2008 Raul Perez “Vico” Bierzo ~ $50
Raul has developed quite a cult following in Spain, and quickly after tasting a couple of his wines we’ve realized the recognition is well deserved. This 100% Mencia elegantly displays itself through a silky texture showing spicy minerals, caraway, soft herbs, and brambly fruit. While it’s racy bouquet will keep you captivated for hours. A new Rootstock favorite!
2009 Mas Igneus “Barranc dels Closos” Priorat ~ $42
Comprised of 80% Garnatxa negra and 20% Carinyena, from one of Spain’s most arid and sandy zones. This biodynamically farmed wine is one of the most approachable young Priorats around. It’s showing black fruits, smoke, anise, barnyard, espresso, with restrained tannin.
2009 Artazuri Navarra ~ $30
This organically produced Garnacha is a nice representation of Navarra without being over done. Medium bodied, starting with intense tannin, and flavors of raspberry preserves, smoke, and a touch of salt water taffy. Quickly transforming itself into a more polished and uplifting wine with red licorice, white pepper, dark berries, and stony minerality.
Germany, Slovenia, & Austria ~
Red
2009 Meyer Nakel Spatburgunder Ahr, Germany ~ $58
Produced in a 5th generation family estate, this is one of Germany’s very best Pinot Noirs and a long time Rootstock favorite. Light in body with an endless bouquet, it’s bright acidity charms the palate white vibrant flavors of tart pomegranate, dark minerals and a broadening finish satiate.
2005 Movia Pinot Nero Brda, Slovenia ~ $69
A friend, winemaking marvel, and proponent of biodynamics, Ales Kristancics’ wines will flatter all of your senses. This 04 Pinot Nero is only getting better with time, medium-bodied, delicately textured, with a wide range of flavors spearmint, black cherry, green peppercorn, and schist.
2009 Paul Achs Zweigelt Burgenland, Austria ~ $40
Paul has been one of Burgenland most influencial winemakers over the last 20 years, promoting his region all over the globe, dedicated to gaining the notoriety this lesser known area deserves. This 09 Zwiegelt is delicious showing wonderful restraint and elegance, with moderate oak, notes of barnyard, dried red fruit and a dark smoky finish.
2007 Meinklang “Konkret” St. Laurent Burgenland, Austria ~ $75
Meinklang is one of Burgenlands great young estates. This “Konkret” bottling is vinified entirely in 9hl concrete egg shaped vessels. The grape here is St. Laurent that’s fermented in the open top concrete egg, then the vessel is covered and the wine is left undisturbed for 12 months. Due to the forces of nature, the wine is in constant movement and we’ve found that the precess brings out the purest expression of a single grape varietal. The flavors are lush, layered, and incredibly integrated, but what makes this wine so special is its velvety palate feel that leaves you feeling complacent.
Americas ~
Red
2006 Caparone “French Camp Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California ~ $32
This organic, unfined, and unfiltered Cali Cab is on the more unorthodox side of the spectrum. Though Caparone’s dedication to “traditional” winemaking is evident and incredibly harmonious in all their wines. Meduim bodied, with aromas of cedar, red fruit, and Provencal herbs, with flavors of red currants, leather, with powdery tannins.
2006 Robert Sinskey Vineyards “Vandal Vineyard” Cabernet Franc Napa Valley, California ~ $70
From a personal favorite estate in Cali, cool climate, clay soils, all natural winemaking are just a few of the reasons why this wine is the benchmark Cabernet Franc in the States. Never overdone, it coats the palate like velvet with layers of plum, dried fig, spicy green peppercorn, vanilla, smoke, and red fruit.
2009 Brooks Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon ~ $38
Jimi Brooks – Russian lit fanatic, biodynamicist, talented chef, and francophile – was a great friend of ours; his sudden passing at the age of 38 in 2004 left us feeling like a light was dimmed in the wine world. It has since been resumed by friends in the Willamette Valley – his wines are now being made, under his name, as he would have wished, by his friend Chris Williams. Pure and spicy and full of bright fruit, they express the best of what Oregon can show.
2005 Weinert Malbec Mendoza, Argentina ~ $38
Weinert is a favorite Argentine estate, crafting all of their wines on old-world principles. They pay very close attention to there wines evolution as it rests in cask, making sure not to loss the beauty and integrity of their Mendoza fruit. Full-bodied and wonderfully rich showing flavors of red cherry, cedar, bakers chocolate, vanilla and soft juicy tannins.
South Africa & New Zealand ~
Red
2009 Paul Cluver Pinot Noir Elgin, South Africa ~ $38
This small estate has been family run for 4 generations, and has been making some of the best Pinot in SA for decades. This is no exception, red fruit, coffee, and mocha liven the palate along with generous acidity and velvety texture.
2005 Sadie Family “Columella” Syrah Mouvedre Swartland, South Africa ~ $60
One of the most intense and revered winemakers in SA Eben Sadie – called by his peers the Caretaker of Terroir – has changed the face of viticulture in his country. This biodynamic blend is one of the Southern Hemispheres most highly acclaimed wines. Defined by its opulence and layers, it slowly reveals itself showing dark brambly fruit, cinnamon, anise, iron-rich red earth, and a finish you’ll taste into the morning.
2009 Mahi Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand ~ $48
Brian Bicknell and his wife Nicola started Mahi in 2001. Like so many of our favorite vignerons, they rely heavily on nature and the character of their vineyards to bring authenticity to the wines. This ‘09 is the best Pinot we’ve tried of theirs, it’s new world muscle and old world charm makes it a wonderful example of what New Zealand has to offer. Showing great length on the palate with flavors of black cherry, pink peppercorn, rosemary, anise, and more…
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago, New Zealand ~ $90
Felton Road has always been a favorite estate, but it wasn’t until visiting them during harvest of 2008 that we realized why the wine, like the people who create it, is so focused. Long hang time, precise vine placement, and no chemicals; in the winery Blair Walter lets nature take over with all natural ferments and no manipulation. Dark berries and violets on the nose. It has a wonderfully smooth palate feel showing ripe cherry, raspberry, and smoke, before finishing dark with delicate spice and dusty tannin.
Rippon Pinot Noir Lake Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand ~
From a country full of awe-inspiring sights, Rippon is truly one of the most aesthetically remarkable vineyards on the planet. Nick Mills and a small tightly knit supporting cast of family and friends are the visionaries behind this small Biodynamic winery. Breathtakingly pure, his wines are some of Central Otagos very best.
2007 ~ $99
’07 was a wonderful vintage at Rippon. The brilliant bouquet of preserved raspberry, sun-soaked volcanic rock and black pepper show the best of Kiwi Pinot. This wine was built to last with elevating acidity, moderate tannin and flavors of ripe strawberry, peppercorn, shitake, and a savory volcanic mineral-driven finish.
2008 ~ $99
Another great bottling from Rippon, fuller in body and texture than the ’07 but showing similar restraint. It’s seductive texture and rich layers of brambly fruit, soft mountain herbs and peppery spice pair perfectly with this wines dark mineral-driven finish.
2009 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago, New Zealand ~ $90
We are simply delighted to finally offer this new Kiwi favorite! Started in 2002 this project has kept many of us eagerly awaiting its inaugural vintage. Ted Lemon of Littorai – a leading American producer of Burgundian varietals – was brought on to control the fermentations as well as one of New Zealands most gifted biodynamic thinkers, Jared Connelly, to head up the vineyard management. Quality dedicated and farming biodynamic since their inception, this wine shows Central Otago fruit at it’s very best. It’s sophisticated and savory, with bright natural acidity, elegant restraint and a black cherry core.